10 Questions with Chen Luyao

Luyao Chen, a Chinese jewelry designer, has successfully built her career in the United States. After earning her bachelor's degree from Le Arti Orafe Jewellery School, she received a full scholarship to pursue graduate studies at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign (UIUC). For the past three years, she has worked as a jewelry designer for James Free Jewelers, where she has developed and managed several collections, including Momento, Laila, and Propose Tonight. Alongside her professional work, she continues to pursue her own artistic projects, with her art jewels exhibited in China, the United States, Italy, and other countries. She excels at using everyday objects as materials in her artwork, transforming items like magnetic powder, sausage casing, and superglue into extraordinary pieces. Recently, she showcased her Super Glue series at New York Design Week.

Super Glue? | Project Description

Superglue is a commonly used tool to connect objects. It is convenient, versatile, accessible, and easy to apply. Despite superglue’s merits, we purposefully choose to deny and conceal its presence, creating a mythic quality of invisibility. It appears in our consciousness divorced from color and form, but in reality, it is visually white and opaque in a lasting solid state. We think that superglue must be in relation to other objects and does not exist as an independent entity. We intentionally place it in discrete locations and try to remove all its visible evidence. It does not deserve to be seen! But here, superglue refuses to be ignored and takes on its own agency. It occupies the center stage. It flows, it explodes, and it devours! Let us reevaluate superglue and confront its materiality, aesthetics, and power.

INTERVIEW

First, let's start with your background. You are originally from China but have studied and worked internationally. What initially inspired you to approach jewelry design?

I've always found jewelry to be captivating, with its undeniable allure impossible for anyone to resist. Growing up with a mother who is a jeweler, I was introduced to the world of jewelry at a very young age. Every summer vacation, my mother would involve me in various tasks at her shop, whether it was assisting guests, managing inventory, or coordinating orders. She also found a very professional painting teacher to guide me in the art of drawing from a young age. As a result, when it came time to choose a major in college, it was only natural for me to pursue jewelry design, a field that I've been passionate about since childhood.

As mentioned, before moving to the USA, you studied in Florence (Italy) to pursue an MFA in Jewelry/Metal at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. How did these experiences shape your artistic practice?

I attended a prestigious jewelry school in Florence, Italy, where the curriculum was entirely focused on jewelry craftsmanship and design. Through comprehensive courses, I gained extensive knowledge of traditional metalworking techniques, intricate hand painting methods, and advanced 3D modeling skills, as well as a deep understanding of the rich history of jewelry from around the world. This immersive experience provided me with a robust foundation that continues to shape and inform my approach to jewelry creation.
While attending a jewelry exhibition, I engaged in a conversation with a fellow student studying jewelry design in the United States. I was intrigued to discover that the focus of their studies diverged significantly from the European approach. Unlike the emphasis on precious metals and gemstones in Europe, their program explored the use of unconventional materials to create wearable ornaments, which piqued my interest. Motivated by this novel perspective, I applied for a postgraduate program at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign in the United States. I was thrilled to receive a full scholarship, affording me the opportunity to delve deeper into this innovative approach to jewelry design.

How do cultural influences, both from your Chinese heritage and from Western influences, inform your artistic practice nowadays? Are there specific themes or symbols that you incorporate into your work? 

As a jewelry designer hailing from China, my artistic practice is enriched by a fusion of cultural influences gleaned from my diverse educational experiences in Italy and the United States. In my work, I strive to bridge the cultural divide between East and West, drawing from the rich artistic traditions of my native China while integrating elements of Western artistic sensibilities. Themes of cultural identity, hybridity, and globalization permeate my designs as I seek to create pieces that resonate with a global audience while honoring my roots.
Through a synthesis of traditional craftsmanship, contemporary aesthetics, and cross-cultural dialogue, my jewelry designs serve as wearable expressions of personal and cultural identity, inviting viewers to engage with the multifaceted layers of meaning embedded within each piece.

Speaking of your work, can you walk us through your creative process when starting a new piece? How do you typically conceptualize and develop your ideas into tangible artworks?

I don't typically create new works just for the sake of creating. Instead, I maintain a sense of curiosity about the world around me and enjoy experimenting with common materials. While I may not know what the end result will be, I always discover something surprising along the way. This uncertainty in material testing serves as the driving force behind my creative process. The unexpected outcomes of these experiments inspire me to think deeply and ultimately inform the creation of my new works.

What role do research and experimentation play in your artistic practice? Are there specific methods you employ to explore the potential of different techniques and materials?

Research and experimentation are the cornerstones of my artistic practice as a jewelry designer. They serve as the driving forces behind innovation, allowing me to explore new techniques, materials, and concepts. My work often involves pushing the boundaries of traditional jewelry-making by experimenting with unconventional materials and processes. For instance, my recent participation in New York Design Week showcased pieces created primarily with superglue.
Inspired by Richard Serra's Verblist, I created my own action list to systematically explore the potential of various techniques and materials. Through hands-on experimentation, collaboration, and research, I push the boundaries of jewelry design, aiming to innovate and create unique pieces that captivate and inspire.

At the same time, are there particular materials or techniques you find yourself repeatedly drawn to in your work? What attracts you to these materials or processes?

In my artistic practice, I'm often intrigued by the potential of using unconventional materials that people might not immediately associate with jewelry making. These materials, though not traditionally used in jewelry, offer exciting possibilities for creativity and innovation. Whether it's repurposing everyday objects like paper, fabric, or even industrial materials like rubber or plastic, I'm drawn to the challenge of transforming these common materials into unique and unexpected pieces of wearable art. What attracts me to these materials and processes is the opportunity to challenge conventions and push the boundaries of traditional jewelry-making.

In your work, you privilege uncommon materials, such as glue or magnetic powder. Why did you choose to work with such materials over more traditional ones? 

These materials offer unique properties and possibilities that traditional materials may not provide. For instance, superglue allows for intricate bonding techniques, while magnetic powder offers opportunities for dynamic movement and interaction within the pieces. Choosing to work with uncommon materials allows me to explore new possibilities, challenge conventions, and create jewelry that is both visually striking and conceptually engaging.

Your work also requires a high degree of craftsmanship. How important is this for you? And how do you see craftsmanship develop in this day and age? 

Craftsmanship today is evolving in response to a dynamic interplay between tradition and innovation. While traditional techniques remain foundational, artist are increasingly embracing modern technologies and materials to push the boundaries of their craft. This fusion of old and new allows for greater experimentation, efficiency, and creative expression. Moreover, there's a growing appreciation for the authenticity and quality inherent in handmade goods, leading to a resurgence of interest in traditional crafts. In a world saturated with mass-produced goods, craftsmanship offers a sense of uniqueness, artistry, and human connection that resonates deeply with consumers. 

Can you discuss any ongoing or future projects you're excited about? What themes or concepts are you exploring in your recent or upcoming artworks?

I think I will keep working on superglue in my next project. Its versatility offers endless creative possibilities, and I'm eager to challenge traditional jewelry making by utilizing it extensively, juxtaposing organic forms with the sleek aesthetic of superglue.

Finally, how do you envision the trajectory of your artistic career evolving in the coming years? Are there specific goals or aspirations you're working towards?

In the coming years, I envision my artistic career evolving toward greater experimentation, innovation, and recognition. I aspire to further refine my distinctive style and expand my artistic vocabulary by exploring new techniques, materials, and concepts. My main goal is to continue pushing the boundaries of jewelry design, challenging conventional notions, and creating pieces that provoke thought and inspire wonder. 

Artist’s Talk

Al-Tiba9 Interviews is a promotional platform for artists to articulate their vision and engage them with our diverse readership through a published art dialogue. The artists are interviewed by Mohamed Benhadj, the founder & curator of Al-Tiba9, to highlight their artistic careers and introduce them to the international contemporary art scene across our vast network of museums, galleries, art professionals, art dealers, collectors, and art lovers across the globe.