10 Questions with Zihao Zhou

Zihao Zhou is a fashion graduate from UAL London College of Fashion with a master's degree in menswear. His journey in the fashion world began when his undergraduate work was showcased at the Beijing International University Student Fashion Week. In 2019, he gained valuable experience working as a designer at Purlicue Currently, Zihao hones his craft as a tailor at Levi’s. In 2024, he took a leap of faith and launched his own eponymous brand, Illogic, in London. With a blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics, Zihao aims to carve his unique mark in the fashion industry.

@zaklondon_official

ARTIST STATEMENT

“Moved by the mysteries of the universe, I see myself as a processor of inspiration rather than just a designer. Drawing from the vastness of the cosmos to the tiny details of dust particles, I seek to express my feelings through various mediums beyond just fabric and fashion.

"Nothing is special, but something is special." This paradox guides my work, finding extraordinary beauty in the ordinary. My art explores the connections between the macro and the micro, revealing the hidden wonders of the world and inspiring others to see the magic in the mundane.”

— Zihao Zhou

AL-TIBA9 ART MAGAZINE ISSUE16

INTERVIEW

First, let's talk about you. Who are you, and what is your relationship with the fashion world? 

Firstly, let me introduce myself. I am Zihao Zhou, a fashion designer dedicated to exploring and showcasing unique aesthetic perspectives through my designs. I graduated from the London College of Fashion and have worked at Purlicue. My design philosophy emphasizes blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities, aiming to create garments that are not only visually appealing but also meaningful and sustainable.
My journey with the fashion industry began with a passion for design and exploration during my time at Dalian Polytechnic University. These experiences not only honed my design skills but also shaped my unique perspective on fashion. During London College of Fashion, I delved into menswear, laying a solid foundation for my future creations and inspiring me to establish my brand, Illogic, in London.
Illogic serves not only as my creative platform but also as a stage for expressing personal artistic visions and exploring new trends in the fashion industry. Through Illogic, I aim to push the boundaries of fashion, guiding consumers to discover and appreciate the stories and design concepts behind clothing.

What inspired you to pursue a career in fashion design? And how did you develop into the artist you are today? 

From a young age, fashion has been a powerful influence in my life, providing me with a sense of confidence. Growing up in a rural area, clothing helped me transition from insecurity to self-assurance. My journey began with studying fashion design in Dalian, where I honed my skills and deepened my understanding of the craft. Participating in University Fashion Week was a pivotal moment, offering significant exposure and experience. After working for a year, I successfully applied for a Master's program in Menswear at the London College of Fashion, which further refined my design philosophy.
Launching my own brand was a dream come true, marking an exciting journey of self-expression and creativity. However, I view fashion as just one of many vehicles for my artistic ideas. In the future, I aspire to explore various forms of expression, such as music and furniture design, to communicate my vision and continue my evolution as an artist.

Your background is quite diverse, from showcasing your undergraduate work at Beijing International University Student Fashion Week to working at Purlicue and Levi's. How have these experiences influenced your approach to fashion design?

The Beijing International University Student Fashion Week was a pivotal experience during my undergraduate studies. Out of over 200 students, 20 were selected by the school to showcase their work in Beijing. As a student project, my focus was primarily on expressing creativity and achieving a perfect runway presentation. This experience allowed me to experiment extensively and provided a wealth of inspiration for future collections.
Purlicue, a cutting-edge brand centered around the street youth community, was where I landed my first design job. I learned more there than during my entire undergraduate program. The brand's founder, Suwukou, a graduate of the University of Edinburgh's architecture program, constantly introduced me to new ideas in fashion. This rebellious spirit is reflected in both Illogic and Purlicue.
My time at Levi's gave me a fresh perspective on denim. Its durable construction offers a wide range of design possibilities, which is why I chose denim for Illogic's first capsule collection.

At the same time, can you tell us about the journey that led you to create your brand, Illogic, and the inspiration behind it?

During my undergraduate studies, I completed four menswear projects, each reflecting different phases of my thinking. However, looking back, I see that my earlier works lacked maturity and depth. My undergraduate graduation project was showcased at the Beijing International University Student Fashion Week, which greatly motivated me to further my studies in London.
Honestly, I learned more during my work experience than in school. A year of working gave me significant insights, allowing my graduate projects to strike a balance between academic rigor and market considerations. London, a city that embraces new designers, was the perfect place to launch Illogic, marking a pivotal step in my fashion career.

What core values and philosophies drive Illogic, and how do they reflect in your designs?

Illogic embodies the rebellious spirit that I felt was missing during my growth. It's the most exhilarating project I've undertaken. Our first denim capsule collection deviates from traditional brand models, featuring upcycled items and innovative denim ensembles. Despite the significant challenges in the conventional fashion industry, innovation thrives in breaking new ground.
My goal is for Illogic to create designs that are not only aesthetically pleasing and functional but also meaningful. For instance, the upcoming Hembag in the denim capsule series is made from repurposed denim fabric salvaged from altered jeans. Each bag is unique, preserving the distinctive characteristics of stonewashed denim. The lengthy process of sourcing, unpicking, combining, and treating the denim means that producing a Hembag is very time-consuming. Unlike most brands, especially new ones, we do not follow the usual rules or worry about time costs; we focus on meaningful design. This approach defines the DNA of Illogic.

Is there a particular story behind the name Illogic, and how did you choose it?

Since I first got into fashion, I've found myself drawn to designs that might seem unremarkable at first glance but reveal surprising details upon closer inspection. This fascination is similar to the work of designers like Kiko Kostadinov, whose creations are deceptively simple yet intricately detailed. This concept of finding depth and complexity in what appears straightforward inspired the name "Illogic."
The term "Illogic" is defined as reasoning or thought that is not logical. This definition perfectly encapsulates my design philosophy. I aim to challenge conventional norms and explore the unexpected, creating pieces that invite viewers to look beyond the surface. By embracing the illogical, I hope to push the boundaries of fashion and encourage a new way of thinking about design. The name "Illogic" serves as a constant reminder to defy expectations and find beauty in the unexpected.

Illogic blends traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, as you mention in your statement. Can you share more about how you achieve this balance in your collections?

For instance, denim and the process of stone washing are inherently tied to streetwear culture. We take it a step further by incorporating secondary stitching techniques. This serves two purposes: promoting sustainability and drawing from traditional Chinese culture. There is a custom in China where parents collect fabric from friends and family to create a quilt for a newborn, symbolizing the child being surrounded by love and care.
This is just one source of inspiration. In our plans, we aim to incorporate more traditional artistic techniques into our designs. For example, we are exploring the use of tie-dyeing and other traditional methods from different cultures. We also plan to integrate elements of traditional British craftsmanship, creating a unique fusion that respects the old while embracing the new. Through this blend, we strive to create pieces that are not only beautiful and contemporary but alsorich in cultural significance.

What materials and techniques do you prefer to use in your designs, and how do they align with Illogic's vision?

During my time at Levi's, I worked extensively with durable fabrics like denim and canvas, which are primarily madefrom pure cotton. These materials not only offer great comfort but also extend the lifespan of the products. I aim to differentiate Illogic from fast fashion by focusing on quality and longevity. 
Currently, I prefer using pure cotton fabrics due to their comfort and durability. However, I am not limited to just cotton. Depending on the season and the theme of the collection, I also incorporate other materials. At Illogic, we prioritize sustainability, comfort, and practicality when selecting fabrics. Our goal is to create products that are environmentally friendly, comfortable to wear, and high quality, staying true to the brand's vision. 

As you mentioned in your artistic vision, how do you see the role of fashion in exploring and revealing the hidden wonders of the world?

During my graduate studies at the London College of Fashion, I observed that each student's research topic was unique and spanned various fields. I remember their projects, ranging from the study of edible spices to dreams and my research on the spiral arms of the universe. These topics touched on fields such as culinary science, psychology, and physics. 
I believe designers have a special eye for discovering beauty. They take subjects, whether grand or minute and transform them into aesthetic expressions through fashion. This is why I say, "Nothing is special, but something is special." Fashion serves as a medium to uncover and celebrate the hidden wonders of our world, turning them into tangible, wearable art.

What are your aspirations for yourself and Illogic, and how do you plan to evolve the brand in the coming years?

My expectations for both Illogic and me are deeply intertwined. For Illogic, I envision a brand that continually challenges fashion norms by merging traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics. I aim to create designs that are not only visually appealing but also meaningful and sustainable, focusing on high-quality, durable materials and innovative design processes that set us apart from fast fashion.
In the coming years, I plan to expand Illogic by exploring traditional techniques from various cultures and integrating them into contemporary designs. We will continue to prioritize sustainability, ensuring that our practices and products have minimal environmental impact. I also intend to deepen our community engagement through collaborations and projects that highlight the importance of cultural heritage and environmental responsibility.
Ultimately, I want Illogic to be recognized as a brand that balances artistic expression with high-quality products. I envision it as a platform that inspires others to see the extraordinary in the ordinary. Through continuous innovation and a commitment to our core values, I believe we can achieve this vision.

Artist’s Talk

Al-Tiba9 Interviews is a promotional platform for artists to articulate their vision and engage them with our diverse readership through a published art dialogue. The artists are interviewed by Mohamed Benhadj, the founder & curator of Al-Tiba9, to highlight their artistic careers and introduce them to the international contemporary art scene across our vast network of museums, galleries, art professionals, art dealers, collectors, and art lovers across the globe.